Fashion Critiques by patrick mcmurray

A quick and simple way to research before buying online is via critiques and product reviews; novices and professionals alike base their trust and opinion on the opinions of others. Critiques are often short and to the point, we want information at our fingertips quickly so we can get on with our busy lives. Now like never before we can share knowledge and information freely, breaking down the barriers of this archaic protectionist society we live in. This suits us just fine, we can draw on our research data and inside information, share it you and accomplish. Many of the brands we critique are personally known to us. For example we know precise details of the SS 2008 collection of cufflinks and silk ties by Vivienne Westwood. Although not available for a few months we've handled and photographed the cufflink collection, so we can comment first hand. One thing you can predict from Vivienne is her unpredictability. If you like surprises then make a note on your 2008 Calendar. Like all her styles they're collectable and will always hold value.

Here is a name no one knows of, Victoria Richards; her silk ties are designed from inspiration, they look and feel different from those pulled from scrap books or archives, driven by market research, or forced by trend setters and style gurus. The difference is, inspiration, the result, silk ties that will never hang darkly in your wardrobe, bright and cheerful, free from classification: Colours of dawn and dusk, tropical, Mediterranean, even arctic, autumn, winter, spring and summer, a Victoria Richards Silk Tie, Jo Snow, Chanel 4 anchor man displays them regularly.

Some may say Timothy Everest silk ties are quite ordinary, well; at first glance they appear so. But you must remember we are dealing with a Savile Row Tailor and very often the differences are very subtle, it may be the colours, or the arrangement of pattern, or variation of classical style, or the texture and choice of weave. At closer inspection many subtleties become obvious; for example in his current paisley collection, he used solid dark colours to form a background to display effervescent paisley patterns, as though stitched to the fabric. Look even closer and you'll notice the texture framed inside the paisley differs slightly from the background. The fabric, the pattern arrangement and colours are enhanced by a variety of subtle textures that make you feel you're in touch with very high quality. This is an example of needle craft at its best. It's the subtle differences that give everlasting appeal. Gaining a reputation on Savile Row is not like pulling a name out of a hat, you have to put in the hard yards, and it's a lifetime commitment.

A Savile Row Historic Anecdote: Richard James, the first of the 'New Generation' tailors, opens a shop on Savile Row. James introduces Saturday opening (a revolution on Savile Row) and a fashionable edge not seen since The House of Nutter's glory days. Tommy Nutter dies. As a fitting epitaph, one of Nutter's final commissions is the outlandish purple suit Jack Nicholson wears playing The Joker in Tim Burton's Batman Returns.

Duchamp; predictably out of the ordinary, bold and vivid, but still dependant on classical forms, there's no getting away from paisley, stripes, checks, floral, polka dots and variations of. The thing with Duchamp, in spite of there luxurious appearance, they are predictable and highly stylised, you know what to expect, no surprises. And since the original founders jumped ship, under new management and ownership the essence has been lost to a large degree. Some of their products are like the old Duchamp we know so well and others are straight out of the archives and resemble any number of other brands. Still they side step being pigeon holed completely and set a good benchmark.

A historic anecdote about the tie: In the 18th and 19th centuries, British sailors often wore white and blue uniforms, complete with a silk or cotton bandanna, or scarf, usually blue. The sailor suit began to be worn in the mid 1800s as yachting became popular. This has had its greatest impact on clothing for women and children. The modern sailor's suit was introduced for boys around 1860 and became an instant success. Still worn today, the white and blue outfit also comes with a dress for girls. "Hello sailor"

Michelsons makers of fine silk ties since 1937: conservative every day work ties that will take the hard knocks, a Michelsons tie is the best economical solution. They have an archive of about 10,000 designs that go back many decades, so variety is never an issue. Their best seller is the classic hounds' tooth, a style that has seen countless fashion cycles and still a seasonal choice of many well known brands.

Finally: The floral tie has been hanging darkly in wardrobes far too long, it's time for justice. And just because winter skies are upon us does not mean we have to reflect its gloom in the clothes we wear. Add some cheer to grey sulky skies with this tribute to the Designer silk tie exclusive to Patrick McMurray, an artist's rendition of Point Sienna flowers, woven onto ultra fine satin silk

That's about it for now.

About the Author

Purveyor of finely crafted Silk Ties and handmade silver cufflinks by, Ian Flaherty, Simon Carter, Vivienne Westwood, Lbb London, Veritas, Timothy Everest, Michelsons and Victoria Richards, Louis Feraud, Shane McCoubrey and Cressida Bell, plus a selection of